Drenched and chilled, I disembarked from the outrigger of a Polynesian voyaging canoe. We had been at sea for the entire afternoon and a significant portion of the night.

My hope of obtaining some respite was thwarted by the relentless rain, strong winds, and a stark lack of level surfaces, rendering any attempt at sleep futile. My fellow travelers did not even bother to try.

The year was May 1972, and I was three months into my doctoral research on one of the planet’s most isolated islands. Anuta stands as the easternmost inhabited outlying settlement in the Solomon Islands archipelago.

Measuring merely half a mile in diameter, situated 75 miles (120 kilometers) from its closest inhabited neighbor, it persists as one of the few communities where travel between islands via outrigger canoes is a customary practice.

My gracious hosts orchestrated a bird-hunting expedition to Patutaka, a desolate, towering rock formation located 30 miles distant, and extended an invitation for me to join their venture.

Our journey to the designated location spanned 20 hours, followed by a two-day stay, after which we set sail homeward, propelled by a robust 20-knot aft wind. This expedition ultimately paved the way for decades of anthropological investigation into the methods employed by Pacific Islanders to navigate the vast expanse of the open ocean aboard diminutive vessels, entirely devoid of “modern” navigational equipment, and to reach their intended endpoints with assured safety.

A documentary crew recently visited Anuta.

The techniques for wayfinding are diverse, contingent upon specific geographical and environmental circumstances. Nevertheless, many principles are universally applied. These encompass the mental charting of islands within the mariners’ navigational cosmos and the precise positioning of potential destinations relative to the celestial movements, ocean currents, prevailing winds, and wave patterns.

Western fascination with Pacific seafaring

The recent cinematic releases of Disney’s two “Moana” features have cast a renewed spotlight on Polynesian voyaging traditions. However, the admiration of Europeans for Pacific mariners stretches back through the centuries.

In the year 1768, the French explorer Louis Antoine de Bougainville bestowed upon Sāmoa the appellation of the “Navigators’ Islands.” The renowned British captain, James Cook, observed that the Indigenous canoes possessed a speed and maneuverability comparable to his own vessels. He extended hospitality to Tupaia, a master navigator hailing from Ra’iātea, aboard his ship and meticulously documented Tupaia’s profound geographical erudition.

In 1938, the distinguished Māori scholar Te Rangi Hīroa, also known as Sir Peter Buck, authored “Vikings of the Sunrise,” a seminal work that elucidated the narrative of Pacific exploration as depicted in Polynesian lore.

In 1947, Thor Heyerdahl, a Norwegian explorer and amateur archaeologist, embarked on a transatlantic voyage from Peru to the Tuamotu Islands aboard a balsa wood raft christened the Kon-Tiki, thereby igniting further curiosity and inspiring a series of experimental maritime expeditions.

A decade later, Andrew Sharp, a historian based in New Zealand and a prominent skeptic, posited that accurate navigation across vast ocean distances without the aid of instruments was an impossibility. This assertion was subsequently countered by numerous ethnographic studies that provided compelling evidence that such voyages were not only historical realities but also ongoing practices.

In 1970, Thomas Gladwin presented his findings concerning the Micronesian island of Polowat in his publication “East Is a Big Bird.” Two years thereafter, David Lewis’s seminal work “We, the Navigators” meticulously chronicled the wayfinding methodologies employed across a substantial portion of Oceania.

A considerable cohort of anthropologists, in conjunction with Indigenous mariners, has built upon the foundational research established by Gladwin and Lewis.

A final significant avenue of inquiry has been the realm of experimental voyaging. Foremost among these endeavors is the contribution of the Polynesian Voyaging Society. This organization commissioned the construction of a double-hulled voyaging canoe, named Hōkūle’a, fabricated using contemporary materials while adhering to traditional design principles.

In 1976, under the guidance of the Micronesian navigator Mau Piailug, they successfully navigated the Hōkūle’a over a distance of 2,500 miles, from Hawai’i to Tahiti, without the utilization of any instruments. Subsequently, in 2017, the Hōkūle’a achieved the remarkable feat of completing a circumnavigation of the globe.

Hokule'a in Hawaii
The Hokule’a vessel pictured in Hawaii in 2010. (HongKongHuey/Flickr)

When traversing the Earth’s largest ocean, it is possible to cover thousands of miles and encounter nothing but an uninterrupted expanse of sky and water in every direction. In the absence of a magnetic compass, let alone GPS technology, how can accurate navigation to a predetermined destination be achieved?

Celestial guidance

The majority of Pacific voyagers depend upon celestial bodies for their navigation. The stars ascend from the eastern horizon, descend in the west, and, in proximity to the equator, trace a predictable latitudinal path. Should a familiar star rise or set directly above the intended island, the helmsman can precisely calibrate the vessel’s course with that celestial marker.

However, this process is not without its complexities.

The specific stars observable, along with their points of rising and setting, undergo alterations throughout the annual cycle. Consequently, effective navigation necessitates a profound understanding of astronomical phenomena.

Furthermore, celestial bodies are in perpetual motion. A star positioned directly overhead the target island will soon either ascend beyond a useful altitude or descend beneath the horizon. Thus, a navigator must identify alternative stars that follow a comparable trajectory and maintain observation of them as long as they remain visible and low on the horizon. Such a succession of guiding stars is frequently referred to as a “star path.”

It is important to note that stars may not always align perfectly with the desired destination. In such scenarios, rather than steering directly towards the guiding star, the navigator maintains it at a calculated angle.

A navigator must continuously adjust the vessel’s alignment with the stars to counteract the drift caused by currents and winds, which can impel the canoe laterally. This lateral movement is known as leeway. Therefore, celestial navigation demands a thorough comprehension of the currents’ presence, velocity, force, and direction, as well as the ability to accurately assess the winds’ intensity, bearing, and their impact on the canoe’s trajectory.

During daylight hours, when stars are obscured, the Sun can serve a comparable navigational function. In the early morning and late afternoon, when the